We are very happy to be staying right near the Isla Cuale, the green heart of Puerto Vallarta’s south side. Almost all of the restaurants and bars that formerly occupied this neck of the woods have closed over the last few years, leaving their empty shells as homes to the feral cats that roam around the island. However, this year a new restaurant has popped up, Eddie’s on the River – we haven’t tried it yet but apparently it has good live music on Tuesday nights.
We have decided that the best way to get down to the ocean is to stroll under the shady trees of the Isla Cuale rather than along the hot, dusty cobblestones of the Zona Romantica, now that it’s about 29 degrees out.
I guess that we no longer stand out as tourists, since very few of the vendors tried to sell us anything as we rolled past. Today on the Malecon a lovely breeze moderated the heat and we enjoyed walking north to the church, stopping every once and a while to do some power people- and pelican-watching. The beast photographed above chases people off his turf in front of the seafood sales shack with alacrity.
One thing that does surprise us about the main square here in front of the church is that there are no restaurants or bars, with the exception of a Starbucks on one corner which we have no particular interest in frequenting. Other than that the only action this morning was the shoe-shine guys and a couple of jewellery vendors sitting in the shade.
Once back on the boardwalk again heading south, we stopped for a cervesa at Cuales y Cuetes, next to the new pier, and then planted ourselves sandside at Ritmos Cafe on the south end of Los Muertos beach.
Along with the usual jet skies and parasailing options, a new fun in the sea activity, fly-boarding, is being offered here. We watched a couple of people give it a go, not having much success at getting further out of the water than about three feet. To me, it does not look that interesting …
As you can see from these photos, erosion continues to be a problem on the beaches of Mexico. High tide creates a cliff drop-off of about three feet at this end of Los Muertos which these workers are sandbagging in an attempt to keep the beach from being washed away.
The usual cast of characters were out in force, the tiny women in Mayan dress selling trinkets and jewellery, the men trying to sell Ty pipes and smoke, the guys wanting to regale us with “information” of various kinds, the tour sellers, and cheeky crow-like flying beasts.
We really like our neighbourhood; the gas man drives past every hour or so, honking and playing his horse-racing music, the water man rolls up on his bicycle with trailer of gigantic water bottles, and the young guys in their muscle cars with very loud stereos serenade us late at night and early in the morning, competing with the chickens and dogs.
See a few more pics here.