Korek on the beach

Yesterday a guy with a dump truck dropped off a large load of stones in front of Eyip’s mother and child sculpture; apparently these will be used in some way to rebuild the theatre toilets … Mehmet and Zubeida have been busy with scythes, cutting the long grasses along the paths and outside my building. Since these grasses are hiding places for the creatures that bite me, I am happy to see them go.

Today is a silver-blue-grey windy day in Gumusluk and a busy day it was for me.  After a lovely breakfast of scrambled eggs with basil, tomato and onion, white cheese and olives prepared by Seray and consumed pond-side, I gathered up my 6 smaller korek stalks, put them in a large blue garbage bag, hung my mannequin-hand bag over my handlebars, jumped on my bike and headed down to Gumusluk beach. Since the ground around the Academy is rock-hard and pretty much impossible to dig into, I had decided last night that I would install the korek on the beach somehow, since the sand would be easier to work with.

I first set up my small assemblage on the base of the abstracted figurative sculpture in the middle of the beach next to the cemented-over house. Then, spying two nice feathery trees in the sand a few meters away, I decided to move them there. I hung the red and gold tablecloth from one of the trees with string, then planted the six korek stalks and the two hands holding crepe paper ribbons in the sand around that tree. It was very windy and the ribbons blew briskly in the breeze. Seeing the coloured stalks standing around the slim white-painted tree trunk amused me and I lay on the sand for a while next to it. The sun was very warm and I watched two wind surfers struggle with the wind and try to zip across the bay on their boards. Since it was really too windy to try to ride back with my big bag of korek flapping into the bike tires, I simply left them planted there on the beach.

I had arranged to meet Gary Berlind, a musician and expatriate American living in Gumusluk, for coffee down by the bay at 2. Since I was a bit early, I strolled along the beach, past the fish restaurants, past the vacant beachside villas and apartments advertising rooms for rent, past the dozing cows resting under the trees, to the end of the bay. There the tree that I had photographed a few weeks ago, with its lovely reflection in a pond in a field, was now sitting in a bone dry bed with no vestige of water left. Passing several young green korek in the field next to the beach, I noticed that they all harboured some kind of red insect, sort of a combination worm-spider.

After googling the Gumusluk Sculpture Symposium, through a series of websites I had found Gary’s name and was interested in hearing about his experiences living in Turkey. We met at the Dalgic café and sampled some cheese and spinach gozleme and my favorite – Nescafe – as we chatted. Gary explained to me how he had ended up in Istanbul after a career begun in the States as a double-bass musician, then musicology student, then computer and PR dude, then, having given it up after 35 years, beginning again as a musician on the viola da gamba in Turkey. Later, we walked up the hill to Iklesia, the historical chapel on the hill next to the Dolmus station, and Gary introduced me to Eren Levendoglu and her husband Mesrut, the couple who live in a stone house just below the church and run the cultural centre out of that venue. They have just acquired a tiny grey kitten from Ilknur at the Academy; the little beast is still crying for her mother.

I had photographed the exterior of Iklesia when I first came to Gumusluk and had marveled at what a great little spot it was. It was delightful to meet Eren and she was kind enough to show me the interior of the church and play a couple of pieces on the Bosendorfer – Bosendorfer!! – grand, one of three pianos (two grands, the other a Beckstein, and one upright given to the Academy) recently donated to Iklesia. It was amazing to listen to these two fabulous grand pianos played, with wonderful sound, in this small venue in Gumusluk. The church is also used for artist residencies, exhibitions, and classes, and is the main venue for the Gumusluk International Classical Music Festival, which Eren directs, held every summer for the past six years. Eren was born in Zimbabwe of an English mother and Turkish father and studied music at the Guildhall School of Music and Drama in London before relocating to Turkey.

Here is the Gumusluk Classical Music Festival website:

Here is Gary Berlind’s website:

See pictures here.

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